Monday, April 20, 2009

It's raining beer in Karlsruhe Stadium!

Guten Abend Freunden und Familie! Good evening family and friends!

This weekend marked an awesome turn in my love of German culture and all things European. On Friday evening, I joined a few of my Singaporean friends for a Southeast Asian food night at a church on the American military base in Heidelberg. It was strange going onto the base (which I didn't really realize we were visiting), as it was like I'd fallen off the edge of Germany into a hidden pit of über-American culture. The people I met there were extremely nice, however, and it was a good learning experience, I guess.

Saturday followed with perhaps my most "Euro" experience so far...German soccer! A German friend I met in one of my classes hooked me up with an awesome last-minute ticket to see the Karlsruhe versus Hoffenheim game. Karlsruhe, the team for which I was instructed to cheer, apparently had been going through more than a dry spell (no goals in 2 months), but lucky for me, they broke their spell on Saturday! The game concluded with a 2:2 tie and an almost-game-winning shot that bounced off the goal post with less than 2 minutes to go, but the fans were still thrilled. There was lots of singing, shouting, hugging strangers, and beer raining from the upper levels when Karlsruhe scored its first goal. I was still wiping dried-up beer off my face when the game ended.

I also got to see a good bit of Karlsruhe (a beautiful city, by the way), ate a delicious bratwurst-like sandwich, and really got to practice my German. There were definitely some fans shouting words and phrases that were not included in my textbook vocabulary...(ehem).

I now love Euro soccer and would love to do it again!! Fantastic experience!!

My parents are coming in just 6 days now, so I'll send out another update then!

Love to all,

Lizzie


Rachel, Rachel, and Fiona (all from my other study abroad home, the Nat'l University of Singapore) at our SE Asia night


Sandra (Uni Karlsruhe) and Dirk (Uni Heidelberg) before the game




Video of the awesome pre-game song: "Baden: Das schönste Land in Deutschlands Gau'n." Basically a bragging song about the greatness of Baden-Württemburg (the state that Karlsruhe and Heidelberg are in). The video isn't very good, but it's cool to listen.

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

Easter in Luxembourg!

Hello again and Happy Easter! Monday, I returned from a lovely Easter weekend in Luxembourg City with 4 of my American friends from Heidelberg. Luxembourg is an easy journey in theory, as the city is not far from Heidelberg (only 2 hours by car), but with our super-discount tickets, our train ended up being about 5-7 hours each way (blech). Nevertheless, we had a great time!

Luxembourg City is built on a mountain, with the city center at the top. Thus, the architecture and natural surroundings of Luxembourg City make it quite a unique spot. We visited some of the underground tunnels from the city's medieval fortress days and the Lux. City history museum, but mostly we spent our time wandering the parks and admiring the architecture (and delicious ice cream).

On Sunday morning, my friend Sean and I attended a Catholic church for Easter services. In choosing a church, I simply picked the one closest to our hostel, and hoped for the best. Knowing German and being able to pick up on a good bit of Luxembourgish, I had a 2-in-3 chance of understanding the service, right? As we realized about 2 minutes into the service, however, it was mostly in French and a little Luxembourgish....alas, just my luck. The service, which was only attended by about 50 people, was lovely, however, and we even got Easter eggs as we were leaving.

All in all, it was a great time! I'm back in Heidelberg now and have resumed classes. Other fun bits of news:

--I am the newest member of the "Grosse Chor der Universitaet Heidelberg" (or the University Chorus), which is about a 100-member co-ed choir. We will have one concert at the end of the semester, where we will perform Haydn's "Missa in Angustiis." For Mom and Dad, you can listen to clips of it here: http://music.barnesandnoble.com/Haydn-Missa-in-angustiis-Nelsonmesse-Te-Deum/Nikolaus-Harnoncourt/e/825646985784

--On Friday, I'm having a SE Asian food party at some church that my Singaporean friends attend on the American military base.

-- I got an awesome offer from a German friend in my literature class to watch some big German soccer game in Karlsruhe on Saturday. I thought it was some little thing until I was informed that this thing will be attended by 30,000+...anyone want to teach me the basics of soccer again?

And I think that's all!

Love and miss you all. Until next time,

Lizzie
My traveling comrades on the way to the hostel


Luxembourg has 3 national languages: French, German, and Luxembourgish (a mixture of French and German). Above is an example of Luxembourgish, which reads "I want to stay as I am." This sentence would look almost exactly the same in German...

The Grand Ducal Palace (House of Government)


Central Square in spring (did I mention that it's FINALLY spring??)


Notre-Dame Cathedral (Luxembourg-style)


Central park running through the city. We spent a lot of our time here; wandering, napping, eating ice cream, etc...


Spring in Europe!!! Who knew things could bloom here?!?


Luxembourg City is built on the side of a mountain...sadly our hostel was at the bottom and the city center was at the top... Here's a view of the city from the top of the mountain.


A church built into the side of the mountain in the central park.


Travel gang hanging out in the hostel

Luxembourg City from the bottom of the mountain


Travel gang with Notre-Dame Cathedral


We didn't eat here, but it's important to note...McDonald's is so expensive in Luxembourg!! A cheeseburger, med fries, and a drink = 7,65 € (more than US$10)


Our Easter Sunday church

Thursday, April 9, 2009

End of the First Week of Classes and a 3:30am National Championship

Hello again!! Sorry it's been a while since we last talked, but I'll try to catch you up.

Last week was the first week of classes, but somehow--through a long series of mishaps and coincidences--I failed to attend a single "real" class...leave it to the German system. Some of my classes were delayed until this week, some professors didn't show, some of my classes were moved to different days of the week...and, oh yea, did you know that Germany just jumped forward with daylight's savings time? I didn't. Try telling that to 100 Germans when you walk into their lecture an hour late...

This week was much more successful, however. I attended all my classes and am reasonably pleased with them. I have 3 classes which together meet only 3 days a week:

-- Monday: 4:30-6:00pm: "Upper-level German."

-- Wednesday: 11:15-12:45: "American Romanticism" (an "English" lecture that's really 50% German/50% English)
4:30-6:00pm: "Upper-level German" (Part II)

-- Thursday: 1:45-5:00pm: "Germans in Film." A surprisingly intense German lecture starting with the dawn of film.

Most excitingly, I've met 3 Singaporean students in my classes so far! They all go to the same university where I studied 2 summers ago and are very familiar with UNC because of the strong UNC-NUS (Nat'l Uni Singapore) relationship. We even discovered some mutual friends at NUS and UNC! SMALL WORLD. We're getting together next week for a SE Asian food night!


On another note, however, for all of you who have been asking, I did get to watch all of the basketball tournament. There was screaming, jumping, hugging, crying, and a huge need for chocolate to soothe the nerves.

We watched the whole tournament on various UNCer's computers in high definition, as the NCAA fortunately broadcasts abroad. Three of my die-hard UNC friends and I watched all the games, and a few others joined now and then, depending on who could stay awake. As most of the games started between midnight and 3:30am our time, asking non-basketball fans to stay up for the games was a bit much to ask.

Yet we partied nonetheless and had a fantastic time. I've never missed Chapel Hill as much as I did that night (I wept like a little girl at the sight of Franklin Street), but there's nothing like chanting "TAAARRR" .... "HEEEEEELS" on the streets of Heidelberg. We tried to keep our voices down, but as the birds were already chirping at that point, we didn't really care...


That's it for me, I guess. Tomorrow morning I'm taking the train to Luxembourg with 4 friends for the Easter weekend. I'll be gone for 3 days and will return on Sunday evening (or midday for most of you).

Love to all and Happy Easter,

Lizzie

So proud of our homemade pizza that we made before the Final Four game vs. Villanova


Chopping up our friend, the organic basil plant


Poor John never made it to see our glorious Final Four win. We just couldn't keep this ASU fan going until 5:30am on a weeknight...

(PS...sorry there aren't any National Championship pictures...I'm an idiot and didn't take any. Miss you all!)

Thursday, March 26, 2009

Paris, my love!

At long last, I'm back in Heidelberg! Exhausted and slightly poorer, I finally have time to look back at my new favorite place in Europe. As much as I hate to admit it, Paris--the stereotypical European destination that everyone always goes to--has stolen my heart. I love it!

In evaluating your "favorite places" abroad, you always have to factor in your personal experience in a given place. My experience in Paris was almost perfect. After having suffered more than a month of gloomy, overcast, rainy days in Heidelberg, Paris was a fresh relief of warm, perfectly sunny weather. We only had a few clouds on our last day there, and frankly, they almost made the city look more beautiful.

We also had two fantastic hosts. Our first, Christine, was an old penpal from Martin Middle School that my friend, Margaret, has kept up with for many years. She lived in a fantastic location just steps from the Sacre-Coeur in Montmarte and makes a mean orange duck dish. Our second host, Olivier, was a young French student that we found through CouchSurfing. He lived only a few blocks from Christine and invited several of his friends over for a homemade dinner and great conversation.

Thus, while in Paris, we hit most of the big tourist sights: the Louvre (for free, as we're under 26!), the Eiffel Tower, Versailles, Sacre-Coeur, the Catacombs, Ile de la Cite, Notre-Dame, Sainte-Chapelle, Musee d-Orsay, and Les Invalides. In addition we visited a few off-the-beaten-path places; some by accident and some on purpose. While it took us a few days to track down the Arc de Triomphe (despite it's massive size), we managed to haphazardly stumble upon the beautiful business district more than an hour from the city center (woops), and the best crepes in the hooker district (double woops).

I will admit, however, that the "goddess of the tight-wads" from Amsterdam massively failed in Paris. Not only is it one of the most expensive cities in Europe, but Paris is also one of the most tempting. With absolutely delicious food and stunning places to tour around every corner, I kind of wracked up a bill....nothing ridiculous, as I steered clear of the shops, but more than 60 Euros to say the least.

My favorite souvenir from this trip was definitely the photography. I apologize for the number of pictures on this blog, but it's hard to take a bad picture in Paris...


The flying buttresses on the back of Notre-Dame Cathedral.


Beautiful streets (with wonderful bakeries on every corner! Hot, buttery croissants were a morning routine).


Architecture at the Louvre. Margaret and I agreed that the Louvre itself was much more beautiful than any of the art exhibits inside it.


Standing on the Ile de la Cite (the boat-shaped island in the middle of the River Seine that runs through the city).


Crossing to the Ille de la Cite.


Moulin Rouge (another difficult attraction to find).


Visiting Versailles, which is about a 30-45 minute train ride outside of Paris. That's the palace in the background, but the gardens in the front are open to the public full-time.


The Hall of Mirrors in Versailles. Louis XIV was really living the good life. Rumor has it that Louis would have various game released in the palace so that he could hunt on horseback inside...


My favorite statue in the Louvre.


The Mona Lisa. The spectacle surrounding it was much more impressive than the painting itself, I believe. The painting just behind the camera was at least 15 feet high and 30 feet wide, but no one seemed to notice it.


STUNNING weather on Eiffel Tower day. The Tower itself is not the best attraction, but rather the view from each level. It was daylight when we started climbing...we watched sunset from the second level...and it was pitch black by the time we reached the top. This was my favorite afternoon in Paris.


As we walked away from the Eiffel Tower, it lit up with colorful flashing lights, as it does for 10 minutes at the start of every hour.


Nightfall at the top.

Sunset from the second level.


The catacombs. At the end of the 18th century, disease was running rampant in the les Halles neighborhood because of cemeteries located adjacent to the neighborhood. Thus, in 1785, the city decided to exhume the graves and move them all underground. These catacombs later became the principal ossuary in Paris and thousand of bones thus line the tunnels now. The round bulges you see are skulls and the others are leg or arm bones. The other bones were scattered along the top. There was an eery peace throughout this place.


Our host andMargaret's penpal, Christine, after she took us to a great Mexican restaurant! As a total stroke of luck, several of my friends from Heidelberg were in Paris at the same time as Margaret and me, so we all went out to dinner together!


And in a total stroke of amazing luck, while quietly wandering the halls of the Musee d'Orsay, I ran into Bo Davis, a good childhood friend of mine from church. Neither of us had a clue that the other was in France, but it was definitely cool finding each other!


These fantastic stories aside, however, I must also include the story of my epic failure on the way back. I left on Wednesday morning with about 3 hours of sleep to catch my 7:30am train. I boarded the correct train with the correct German travel documents and headed towards Germany with no problems. Just as we approached the French-German border, however, the French train lady approached my seat to check my ticket and her face went sour. She demanded to see "my reservation." I looked at her oddly and told her that my ticket was my reservation. She said no. I needed another ticket reservation with a specific seat assignment. My ticket was all that the German officials had given me, however. So after several minutes of being yelled at in a mixture of broken French and German, I gave in and paid a hefty fee. I hate French trains now.

This first part of my failure I blame on French-German train miscommunications, but the second, was largely my fault. Exhausted and bummed out from being yelled at, I sat back in my seat and closed my eyes. When I awoke at the correct time to arrive in Heidelberg, I looked out my window to find signs for "Stuttgart." OOPS. Though my ticket didn't specify that I had to change trains in Karlsruhe, I should have asked a train official to be sure, and consequentially, I missed my connection to Heidelberg and arrived in Stuttgart. I will say however, that Stuttgart is beautiful and you should visit. So after buying a return ticket from Stuttgart to Heidelberg, I went home. At long last. :)

Still, Paris was beautiful, and upon reflection, my return train was more funny than traumatic. I can't wait to return to this beautiful city some day in the future!!!

Love you all and can't wait to see you soon,

Lizzie

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Amsterdam, Leiden, and the Raw Sausage Sandwich

Today is day 8 of my 14-day traveling excursion. Last Wednesday, I left Heidelberg and arrived in Amsterdam with an American friend from Heidelberg, Deborah. Then on Monday I left for Leiden-- a small town about 30 minutes outside of Amsterdam--to stay with one of my best friends from home, Margaret.

My vacation has been nothing short of a blast so far. I miraculously made it all the way through Amsterdam on only 60 Euros (aside from train tickets) and now prefer to go by the title "goddess of all tight-wads."

On Wednesday and Thursday nights, we couchsurfed (this is now a verb too, much like "to facebook" or "to google") with Chrissy, an American pre-med student currently working in a science lab in Amsterdam. Much to our surprise, she generously lent us her Amsterdam Museum card for two days, which got one of us into every museum for free. We then split the price of the other ticket. Doing this, we were able to see the Reijks Museum (the largest art museum in Amsterdam), the Van Gogh Museum, and the Versetzmuseum (which talked about the Dutch resistance of the nazis in WWII).

On Friday, Saturday, and Sunday nights however, we stayed with Timo, a 27-year-old graduate who just moved to Amsterdam a few weeks ago to find a job, but has a bit of time on his hands for now. He was extremely kind and made us breakfast or dinner every day. I love Dutch "mustard soup"--it sounds gross, but is delicious! While staying with Timo, we took a canal tour of the city, tried some great Dutch farmer's cheese at an open air market, briefly walked around the red-light district before becoming uncomfortable, and spent a good amount of time hanging out with some of Timo's Dutch friends talking about politics, cultural traditions, and the topic "who are stereotypically more rude: the French or the Germans." Such experiences as these are simply invaluable and one's that you'll never find staying in a hotel.

At this point, however, I am sure you're wondering why I titled this blog in such a strange way. This brings me to my final story: the raw sausage sandwich.

Just in case you're taking a trip to the Netherlands anytime soon, I'll give a word from the wise: always, always ask if the meat in a restaurant has been cooked. Apparently, it often is not. So when Deborah and I proudly found a quaint, non-toursity Dutch pub slightly off the beaten path, I ordered what I thought was going to be a bratwurst-like sandwich. What I got, however, was six, cold, raw sausage patties piled high with raw onion, capers, and mustard. I ate half the sandwich before quitting. Never again.

Still, this story aside, my trip in Amsterdam was simply fantastic. I'll leave you with a few pictures before I go.

Love to all,

Lizzie
The train station in Köln on the way to Amsterdam


Oddly enough, when it's pouring rain outside, you don't have to fight anyone to take a picture in front of the Amsterdam sign.


The raw sandwich.


Views of Amsterdam.






Stunning churches, which often are very run-down on the outside, surprise you around many corners.


Our host, Timo, was new to Amsterdam as well, and wasnt' much of a help in getting us around.


Arrival in Leiden to see Margaret!

Wednesday, March 11, 2009

21st Birthday, Heidelberg Style

I'm about to leave for Amsterdam and Paris in less than 2 hours, so I'll make this quick, but I wanted to get up a few pictures from my "Heidelberg style" 21st birthday. The events of the last 24 hours have been some of the most fun in my life!

Considering that I've only known my friends here for a few weeks, I was overwhelmed by their generosity and kindness on my birthday. Yesterday began with warm hugs and shouts from a bus load of friends on the way to class, a rose from a few of my classmates, and a hearty round of "Zum Geburtstag, Viel Glück!" (or happy birthday, auf Deutsch) with students and my German professor. The afternoon then followed with gifts from a few friends, including a beautiful bottle of wine from my roommate and a large, über-touristy Heidelberg beer glass filled with beer-flavored gummies.

Later in the evening, much to my delight, a few more friends cooked me a real Singaporean meal with tofu-Laksa soup and a vegetable-noodle stir-fry (which definitely opened the nasal passages). Following that, we headed out for a night on the town, which included my favorite bar, Yufka Döner from my favorite restaurant, and a long walk home when we realized it was a weekday and the moonlight buses weren't running...

All in all, it was a fantastic birthday and I feel honored to have such great friends. The only thing that could have made my birthday more enjoyable would have been to have all of you there too. I miss all of you so much... Thanks so much for all the kind birthday emails and cards that have either arrived, or that I know are on the way (I've received two from Aunt Carole and Gang, and Mrs. Davis--thank you!!!).

And with that, I'm off to Amsterdam! I love you all--can't wait to blog again soon!


Rose from Marius (Norway) and Danica (Canada)


My entire German class, following the singing of Happy Birthday. On the far right, my professor, Frau Wolff


Deborah and Kate making Singaporean dinner!!!


And a fairly unattractive picture of us gathered round the dinner table...it's not the best, but you get the idea